Bali Hut Umbrella Install
Concgadulations with your Bali Hut DIY Kit !
Brisbane Thatch and Decks. Custom build thatched Bali Huts, Shigle roofs, Cape Reed Thatched Cabanas & Gazebos.
Brisbane Thatch and Decks is a proud Brisbane based business. With a relaxing lifestye in mind We design, supply and install Decks, Shingle roofing, Exotic African Cape Reed Thatched huts (Rondawels) & Tropical Island style Balinese Thatched Roof structures such as Bali Huts, Cabanas, Balinese Gazebo's, Pavilions or Pergolas at factory direct prices without compromising on quality. We focus to deliver a exceptional product, client service and satisfaction . We do all maintenance and repairs on all types Brushwood, Balinese and Cape reed Thatching.
FRAME ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
All timbers must be placed and joined with the markings facing up.
Begin by laying the 4 ring beam pieces on a flat area at the location where your Bali Hut is going (these are the widest timbers).
Make sure the ring beams are flat and square, then attach them together using 2 x100mm from one side and 3 x 100mm batten screws from the other side through the face of one beam into the end of the adjoining beam.
Make sure it is square by measuring from corner to corner (the diagonal measurements should both be the same).
The posts are 150mm dia. So mark your centre of hole 75mm in from each corner where the ring beams join. Move your ring beam assembly out of the way and dig the four holes 800mm to 900mm deep with diameter of 450mm.
Once this is done move your ring beam assembly back into place and make sure it is still square and flat.
Next place your posts into the holes you have just dug making sure that both corners of the ring beams are touching the post and are vertical, then set with concrete.
Once the concrete has set you may need to trim the tops of your posts if they are not level with each other. We recommend having the tops of your posts at 2350mm from finished ground / floor level.
Next slide the ring beam assembly up the outside of your posts until the top of the ring beams are 55mm above the tops of your posts.
Then attach your ring beams using 100mm batten screws. If your ring beams are 2m in length you will need 2 screws per side on each post (16 screws altogether), if your ring beams are 3m in length you will need 3 screws per side on each post (24 screws altogether) etc.
The Knee braces (not needed if the posts are being concreted into the ground) screw up on the outside of the ring beam, and the outside of the post. Lay the knee brace at 45° across the corner between the post and the ring beam (knee brace sits on the outside of the post and butts up to the underside of the ring beam). Use 2x 50mm batten screws to attach the knee brace into the ring beam, and 2 x 100mm batten screws to attach it to the post, ensuring the post is perpendicular to the ring beam.
For Hip roof go to step 3; for gable roof jump to step 4
Step 3 Hips
When King post is mentioned here substitute it for ridge beam if you have a rectangular kit.
Assemble the hips as follows,
The hips are the double pieces screwed together with point one end and inverse on the other.
Place the pointed end snugly into the upper corner of the ring beam with the line marked side facing up. Ensure top of the hip sides are level with the top of the ring beam hold hip in position while attaching with 2 X 100mm batten screws, screwed through both sides of the ring beam into hip.
The hip will then hold itself in position, repeat for all hips, do not worry if they don’t appear to all line up exactly at this time.
Insert the King post (square 100mm block) or ridge beam (the large beam made of 2 pieces screwed together with an extension piece of timber on the top) into the center of the 4 hips.
The king post should protrude down about 25mm below the hips, or for ridge beam, the hips should sit 50mm down from the top of the ridge beam main timbers (not the extension timber).
You can then adjust the hips by pushing them up and down until they are all level on the king post / ridge beam. If you end up with 2 diagonally higher than the other 2 your frame is out of square and you need to move the ring beam and posts slightly to adjust them all level
Once they are all lined up screw together with 100mm batten screws.
Step 4 Rafters
Starting with the longest rafters (line marked side faces up) place the lower end against the inside of the ring beam and the top against the hips/ridge beam, pencil lines on the ring beam give an approximate location, check and adjust where necessary using a set square so the rafters are at 90 degrees to the ring beam, the top outer edge of the rafter should be flush with the top of the ring beam.
Screw together using 100mm batten screw through ring beam and 100mm batten screw through top of rafter into hip / ridge beam.
Always start with the longest rafters working to the shortest creepers.
With an A frame roof the rafters are all the same length so do the ends first then after all the rafters are in place attach the brace across the rafters.
Any problems please call us, we are more than happy to talk you through it.
Brisbane Thatch And Decks 041 721 9090
Balinese thatch - Installation Instructions
Balinese thatch, supplied in strips of 2.5m (horizontally) by 0.8m (vertically). The Alang-Alang grass is woven around a bamboo batten, which is 2.5m long. The Alang-Alang grass provides over-hang of 0.5m.
Start thatching from the bottom on any one side and work your way up.
The string side faces down; the visible bamboo tie rail faces up.
Don't use the 100mm nails supplied for the mud-bugs to nail down the thatch.
The first strip goes on the fist line marked up from the bottom of the rafters, on the pre-marked pencil lines, with the end covering half the hip beam.
Attach the thatch strips to the rafters & hips by nailing or stapling them through each bamboo batten. Your strip spacing, (batten spacing), should be 75-100 mm apart as per the pre-marked pencil lines.
(If you do not have access to a 50mm Stapel gun use very common and accessible nail gun (or Brad nailer) firing 50mm 15 Gauge Brad nails)
2) Cut the strip off at the center of the furthest rafter (or hip if it reaches)
3) The bamboo battens can be sawn or cut to the required length, with no need to bind or tie them after cutting. (long garden tree branch loppers work well)
4) Continue up the roof until one full strip spans hip centre to hip centre.
By now you should have the complete lower area of one side covered except for a small triangle, cut strip pieces to thatch this triangle before continuing up the roof.
Continue up the roof starting each strip at hip centre and cutting strip at center of other hip, keeping the off cuts in order.
You will reach a point where the off cut is about half the strip length; (i.e. 1.4m) this off cut then becomes your next piece of thatch to attach.
From there on up your saved off cuts should fit all the way to the top, remember to cut each one at the centre of the hip. (If you have a lot of long off cuts left over give us a call before continuing as you are doing something wrong.)
Once you have finished one side repeat the process for all 4 sides.
5) When all sides are finished use some thatch off cuts or strips to attach 4 or more extra layers at the top, on top of each other, by nailing or stapling them to the side of the king post or ridge beam extension.
YOU HAVE NOW COMPLETED THE STRIP THATCHING STEP II MUD-BUGS
2) Once you have the mudbugs tied, start by nailing two to the bottom of the hip beam, checking that the mudbug thatch overhang is the same length as the thatch overhang at the bottom.
You need to hammer the nail a long way in, so that it pulls the wire tightly and actually starts to squash the mudbug into an oval shape. The using your hammer, splay the mudbug out so that it covers the whole bottom corner.
Then start your way up the hip nailing one mudbug about every 250 - 300mm above the last one..
At the top you should end with on mudbug on each hip...
4) Finally, place the Balinese ridge capping (if you have one) right on the top of the ridge covering the last bit thatch, you can use a bead of silicon around the base to hold the terracotta ridge capping in place. (Alternatively you can also drill a hole into the top of the ridge capping and secure the tiles with a batten screw to the ridge)
To finish, you can water the roof down (subject to water restrictions) and rake it with steel garden rake while it is wet, this will remove any loose thatch and start the straightening process.
It usually takes a few weeks, some rain, and a few rakes for the
thatch to straighten out properly.
1) “Mudbugs” or hip covers are bundles of the Alang-Alang grass that are used to fill-in the corners (hip joints). These bundles need to be nailed or secured-in. Each bundle needs to be tied around with wire and a long nail (supplied) or screw. The bundles then are nailed or screwed onto the corner rafters.
PREPARING THE MUDBUGS
Cut a piece of tie wire long enough to go twice around the mudbug (at the cut end of the thatch) plus about 100mm for twisting.
100mm along the length of wire wrap it once tightly around the 100mm (supplied)nail just under the nail head.
Push the nail through the middle of the mudbug about 100mm from the cut end of the mudbug.
Wrap the wire tightly around the mudbug twice, twisting the 2 ends together with pliers.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE TIE WIRE IS VERY TIGHTLY TWISTED
TO PREVENT THE MUDBUD GRASS FALLING OUT IN WINDS ETC.
3) Finishing each hip with two mudbugs at the top, Fit another 1 mudbugs in the middle of the 4 top mudbugs.
Make sure they tidy and level on top so you can fit the crown.
Fit two more rows of thatch on the ridges and about 200mm over the top of the top mudbugs.
5) Should you experience any difficulties, please do not hesitate to contact one of our staff at Brisbane Thatch and Decks,
041 721 9091
Sit back, relax, and enjoy your new home built Brisbane Thatch and Decks Gazebo